Voyage Log: Port Macquarie – Newcastle Day 7

Monday, 6 October 2008

Noon position Lat 33°34.2′S Long 151°20.5′E
exiting Broken Bay
Day’s run 6.1 nm

At noon, the first shore party reaches the summit of a nearby hill – an advance party – up to explore before Wally, the chief engineer, leads a large group to the summit closest to Endeavour later this afternoon. The group of voyage crew who have sailed together previously on the navy’s sail-training vessel – HMB Endeavour’s oft confused namesake Young Endeavour – sit on a large rock just above the water. They are on the beach across from Endeavour, she is at anchor in Broken Bay. After some banter with some other crew, they invite a large splash from a carefully thrown log landing at their feet. Still fully clothed, they are dripping as they clamber back off the rock – revenge on their mind.

Tegan, the mizzenmast topman, becomes the target for their retribution – despite her innocence – and is dragged kicking and screaming towards the water. When she realises they are committed to throwing her in, she stops kicking and screaming, empties her pockets and takes her jumper off, then lies down quietly so they can resume carrying. Afterwards Teegs says her watch is “a bit too fun.” Back aboard the ship and Ant, Dirk, and Matt – the sailing master, navigator, and boatswain’s mate – are carrying out maintenance duties. Many long-weekenders (this being a three day weekend in NSW) are out in their boats and yachts, coming alongside and hailing the ship, curious and pleased to see her.

On shore, Wally has arrived, and leads the large group of voyage crew bushwalkers up over the rocky bushland hillside, through the thick scrub, to the nearest summit – where everyone can get a photo of Endeavour as she would have looked arriving on Australian shores in the 18th century, surrounded by untouched bushland. Once the walk is finished people go for a last swim before heading back to the ship, fizz-boat-load by fizz-boat-load (the ship’s rescue boat). Onboard Endeavour, the topman and upperyardies have joined in on the maintenance duties, Tom, the mainmast topman, and Amy, the mizzenmast yardie, are doing touch-up painting on the after fall deck.

Over afternoon smoko – a special treat of fine cheeses and crackers – the voyage crew member whose hammock came down the first night talks of her children who sailed on Young Endeavour, and how she regretfully complained: speaking of age discrimination as Young Endeavour is restricted to 18 to 23 year-olds. And of course when they heard about Endeavour she had to come aboard: “should have kept my big mouth shut!” she says with a laugh. Everyone is enjoying themselves but it is good, hard work; lucky she’s in for a spoilt evening. Around 1700 hours and preparations are being made for mess deck dinner, where the professional crew and officers serve the voyage crew on the 18th-century deck. Meanwhile the voyage crew make last minute preparations for their sods opera acts, madly photocopying and trying to practice discreetly. The tin whistle and fife are out again, contending with the sound of the main engines which the captain, Ross, and engineer, Wally, are testing. Ross does a quick free dive (without tanks) to have a look at the starboard propeller.

At 1800 hours the professional crew start appearing in 18th-century garb, and make the final preparations for mess deck dinner. At 1830 the voyage crew are called to their seats, and have a seafood feast followed by berry flan with cream and ice cream prepared by Abi and Darbey, the catering officer and cook’s mate – though Ross tells fables of being up each morning catching the prawns himself – gracious as ever as he clears plates. After dinner and clean up it’s time for wages, a tot of rum for every hand. Then it’s straight into sods. It’s an enormous and varied line up, with each watch (the Mizzenmast Marvels, the Mainmast Merrymakers, and the Foremast Fantasticals) contributing several acts each. There are songs, poetry readings, musicians, crazy dancing (so that’s what they do on navy sail-training vessels), a game of celebrity heads fulfilling the captain’s wildest dream, jokes, more poems, more songs, more musicians, and a stand-up comic act, all accompanied by Davey’s singing – the ship’s budgie. An amazing and spectacular sods.

After such and enjoyable evening people linger for a little while, but they know there’s a day and night of hard sailing to do and eventually get themselves into their hammocks. Up on the quarter deck Ant flicks the mizzen course – out to stabilise the ship’s position while at anchor – knocking the many perched moths off, he snatches one out of the air and teases a few of the crew with it, before releasing it in the face and scruffy pirate hair of his protégé Matt – who jumps to his feet and scrambles to get rid of it.

In the morning the crew awake to an open swimming pool off the side of the ship (showers are not allowed while we’re in the bay), and they have a marvellous time – if somewhat chilly – jumping in. Down in the galley Abi asks Wally to come up with a better way of keeping a dairy fridge door latched, “ah you’d like a more scientific way” says Wally; it’s these odd inventive tasks that Wally enjoys most. Those in the refreshing water off the side of the ship call up to there less enthusiastic shipmates: “come on, you gotta live a little.” It inspires a few more swimmers. Ant and Ross don wetsuits and full dive gear to go under the ship and work on the propeller. Tom the mainmast topman spots an eagle flying over the swimmers, a dignified sight above the slapdash swimmers.

As soon as the swimming pool closes for business, mainmast watch is commanded into their harnesses without a moments delay, there’s work to be done before they are called down to the second sitting of breakfast. They can hardly believe it and get themselves nowhere with a moment’s back chat, only delaying their partaking of the pancakes that torture their olfactory sense.

0900 hours sees much furling and reefing activity in the morning drizzle, it is picturesque despite the weather – low cloud set behind the nearby hills, with faint mist veiling those further back, adding depth to Endeavour’s surroundings – and making a fine, painterly scene. At 0940 the main engines are started while the crew lifts the fizz boat onto the ship. Ally, the foremast topman, has a brief sword fight with one of his watch, in which he interlocks right hands with his opponent with index fingers pointed out – and each tries to poke the other’s shoulder. The sails ready, reefs prepared, we commence weighing anchor, and we are underway at 1013. Broken Bay is crowded with boats ahead, it being Monday of the long weekend. At 1030 the fore topmast staysail and mizzenmast staysail are set, and mainmast watch climbs up to the main course. The watches are relayed through a thorough happy hour, inspected by Toby the chief officer, Ally’s foremast watch scrub away in the 18th century with the sound of sea shanties playing. And at 1130 the main topmast staysail is set.

With all the fun, shenanigans and tomfoolery, the chief officer is keen to get the crew back out to sea: they’ve obviously had far too much sleep.

All is well.

Contributed by ship’s steward Mischa Chaleyer-Kynaston

 

Voyage Log: Port Macquarie – Newcastle Day 6

Sunday, 5 October 2008

Noon position Lat 33°35.94′S Long 151°14.18′E
Broken Bay, at anchor off Hallet’s Beach
Day’s run  

The smell of mouth-watering steak sandwiches has been wafting up to the deck, and those in the 2nd sitting of lunch look forward to going down to the galley. At 1230 a trumpet sounds and starts blowing different tunes – it looks to be a music filled sods opera tomorrow night. The 2nd sitting of lunch is called down, and as they take their seats – plates laden – an announcement comes over the PA declaring a whale sighting. The diners look at one another, “Hmm… whales? Or steak sandwich?” No one opts for the whales! Matt the boatswain’s mate sets a lunchtime record, seconds, thirds, fourths! Four massive steak sandwiches, written on the menu as “Chippy’s Store Flame Grilled Steaks” in homage to the morning’s fire drill – which was hypothetically caused by Matt in the chippy’s store. All downed before the first end-of-lunch warning. Abi – the catering officer – gives him a knowing smile and nod as he takes his fourth helping.

As they finish lunch one of the voyage crew asks “what are we going to do now?” Someone mentions sods night and that they should prepare, but the first replies “I would love to hitch my hammock!” But they know there’s not much hope of that. For the rest of the afternoon any voyage crew with some idle time work on their sods ideas and routines. It is raining properly now and all on deck are in their wet weather gear. At 1300 we hand the main course followed by the fore course at 1400, handing the sails in preparation for our entrance into Broken Bay to anchor. At 1420 there are many sea buckets being handled on deck – but seem to be tossed back over the side; the biodegradable refuse (the “slops”) have been thrown over the side – and much has been left on the ship’s hull, the sea buckets are being used to wash it off.

At 1430 Captain Ross announces we will be entering Broken Bay – last opportunity for showers! And there is a mad dash of voyage crew down below – who had obviously forgotten that there is close control of the grey water tanks while we are close to shore or in port. We wear ship for our final approach into Broken Bay. At 1450 there is another whale sighting, a pair very close by. At 1500 hours the supernumeraries – the voyage crew housed in the gentleman’s quarters on the after-fall deck near the captain’s cabin – are treated to afternoon tea with the captain in the great cabin. The main engines are started and both the fore and main topsails are handed. All hands are employed to furl sails as we enter Broken Bay at 1640 hours, many voyage crew aloft – out on the yards – as we come in. At 1720 we lay anchor off Hallet’s Beach, amongst pristine national park bushland. For dinner Abi and Darbey, the cook’s mate, serve creamy mushroom pasta, with sumptuous honey-glazed sweet potato, pork fillets, and for desert bananas cooked in rum and brown sugar – to die for. The captain scampers in while the second sitting finishes, looking sheepish and humble as he looks at Abi with the best puppy-dog eyes he can muster – and is granted a plate of food.

At 1800 hours, with two and a half shackles of anchor cable out, there is 3.2 metres of depth under the keel. And it’s movie night! The captain, with assistance from the crew, sets up a screen on the weather deck, and projects incredible footage of Bark Endeavour ripping along under full sail, and rolling like anyone aboard knows she can, then plays a movie of a massive 7-storey high tallship sailing the wrong way around the horn. Everyone thoroughly enjoys the respite, the popcorn, and the chocolate. Afterwards there is a full night’s sleep for the crew (except for some brief anchor watches), and a sleep in, with brunch served at 1000 hours. At 1030, just as the crew prepares for a visit ashore for some more R&R, a nearby boat and sightseer fouls up our anchor buoy, very embarrassing for the boat’s helmsman. Ant the sailing master and boatswain, and Tom the mainmast topman, jump in the fizz boat and go out and untangle the cable from the propeller, luckily done without entering the water (just – Ant was almost down to his underwear to jump in and sort it out).

At about 1100 hours the first shore party is away, landing on the nearby beach, and the fizz boat begins ferrying back and fourth with boatloads of five voyage crew at a time. It is overcast but the rain seems to have abated, and it’s lovely to see the ship from the shore in this unspoilt, natural setting.

All is well.

Contributed by the ship’s steward Mischa Chaleyer-Kynaston

 

Voyage Log: Port Macquarie – Newcastle Day 5

Saturday, 4 October 2008

Noon position Lat 33°35.4′S Long 151°36.6′E
Day’s run 96nm

At 1230 there is an interesting cloud formation on the radar, not dissimilar to the appearance of land. The captain, Ross, wonders whether we’re in for a squadron of moths. Tegan, the mizzenmast topman, doesn’t know about the manifestation on the radar, but comments on the cloud formation, pretty and interesting, unique. With everyone on their sea legs they can now appreciate and glory in some of their battle damage, proud that they have wounds that make a fine sight but hadn’t yet noticed: “no wonder my shins are hurting!”

While lunch finishes up (featuring perfect, succulent chicken prepared by Abi and Darbey, the catering officer and cook’s mate), the captain chats with the sailing master and navigator, Ant and Dirk, about an afternoon plan. Set the topgallants perhaps? Jib? Might be the only opportunity for the “TGs” – which require lighter winds. Or is it time for an emergency drill? They have some discussion, interrupted by a call for mainmast watch to report to deck for sail handling, and the captain goes to check the conditions and make a final decision. The sound of wind instruments filter down to the galley, playing a pleasant tune, the last diners point their ears up and speculate its origin, must be coming from the 18th-century deck immediately above. No where to be found. Continuing up and there they are, two mizzen watch voyage crew, sitting by the main hatch in the waist of the ship, one playing a “penny whistle” – a low D tin whistle, and the other playing a fife. In fact it’s the two crew members who shared a birthday on the first day, born to the same musical persuasion.

There is an abundance of sail handling, 1340 sees the jib set, followed closely by the mizzen topmast staysail, the fore topgallant and the main topgallant. At 1430 the navigator sits on the gentleman’s mess skylight and polishes the sextant – the timeless (metaphorically speaking, as time is a crucial aspect of it’s calculations) device for taking readings of celestial bodies to fix the ship’s position, polishing the object a pleasure rather than a chore. Ross gives a talk about weather patterns and square-rig sailing, referring to the 4-day synoptic chart. 1500 hours sees the few extra sails handed back in, first the jib, then the fore and main TGs, and the mizzen topmast staysail. During the operation Abi the catering officer brings a mysterious basket up to the deck, those furling the main topgallant are teased with glimpses of chocolate therein. With most of the sail handling done, Ben, the second mate, announces over the PA: “I have been instructed that if you would like a chocolate bar, then you must attend the rest of the captain’s talk…” Suddenly there are several professional crew – who don’t usually attend – sitting front row centre.

Sitting up at the bridge relaxing, a few voyage crew befriend Davey – the ship’s budgie – trying to get some conversation out of him without getting bitten. After some time he obliges, chattering softly; they worry about his feathers, many shed in the strong winds of the last day or so. There is talk of sods opera night coming up, performance possibilities. And at smoko time it’s treat after treat, from chocolate to corn chips and guacamole, yum! At 1710 the captain looks excited, dashing to his sea chest in the great cabin and pulling out the reference books for shooting stars, he, the navigator, and the mates are going to take readings with the sextants and try to fix our position. A few minutes later and the skipper and navigator are sitting over their books by the aft companion way, preparing for the moment after sunset when stars will appear. Endeavour is sailing into the sunset, bearing towards Sydney, still somewhat south of our destination. A cool evening breeze is felt during the twilight, but the chill aspect does not last long, turning to a warm breeze and a mild night.

1800 hours sees the spritsail clewed up, and at the same time down below, while slinging their hammock, a voyage crew member calls: “would suck if you were short doing this!” She’s obviously not vertically challenged herself. After a delicious stew for dinner there is banana split with chocolate sauce, cream, ice cream, nuts and freckles, making Abi and Darbey very popular – as usual. At 1830 Dirk and Ben are on the quarterdeck trying to get a good sighting, but unfortunately they only get one star – as it has become quite overcast – enough for a line only and not a position. Before the sextants are put away all hands are called on deck for a change of course, we are to tack ship! The conditions are favourable and the crew of Endeavour accomplish a fine tacking manoeuvre. An hour later, 2000 hours, and she’s sailing full and by on gentle seas.

At 2230 there is some lightning and squall activity, the southerly change hits, and the topsails are clewed. The main topmast staysail and the mizzen staysail are handed. During the change of watch there is much sail handling, the idlers called up to help. It is an “interesting” night, says the captain, thunder and lightning, wind and no wind and wind again. At 0100 the fore and main topsails are set again, and at 0250 we hand the main course, only to re-set it at 0345. The seas are slight and the wind veering. At 0500 we set the mizzen staysail, the wind variable but mainly blowing a westerly. And at 0620 we drop the mizzen staysail again, as the winds start filling in from the south. At 0720 the yards are braced around, similar to wearing ship but in this case there is no change in course – only a change in the wind.

Over breakfast a voyage crew member of foremast watch speaks of their gruelling 6 hour shift the night before (4 hours plus some cross over), “sails up, then down, then up, then down. They don’t let you lie down on this ship! Believe me I’ve tried!” They try to finish off some breakfast while their topman calls them on deck to report for watch duty again. At 0810 mainmast watch is massed at the top of the galley companionway with baited breath, waiting for their sitting of breakfast to be called. At 0835 the winds are 13-15 knots south-south-east, and we are bearing north to anchor in Broken Bay – for some respite and leisure time for the hard-working crew, and for sods opera night.

1000 hours and we wear ship, 1045 sees a south-westerly change, and Dirk comes over the PA: “We are sailing again! Come and see before the rain.” The southerly means sailing, and also means rain. Mainmast watch escapes from the oncoming rain and practices their sods opera routine with their supernumerary in the great cabin – little do they know they are about to be rudely interrupted. At 1110, as if the previous 24 hours hadn’t seen enough action, Matt the boatswain’s mate comes running out the chippy’s store calling: “Fire! Fire! This is an exercise! There’s a fire in the chippy’s store!” Time for a fire drill. The entire ship’s complement muster on deck, checked off by Ben, the second mate. Ally the foremast topman and Ant the sailing master don their fire fighting gear and head down below. The watches work in teams to respond to different tasks, hosing the deck above the source of the fire, and moving the stand-alone fire pump (not dependent on the ship’s generators for power). At 1120 we brace the main sails aback and heave-to, to get the fire pump working. A yacht passes by on the starboard side, unnoticed by the busy crew of Bark Endeavour. The drill is completed and we get back underway under sail. During the debriefing a few questions are asked, “what happens to Davey if it comes to abandoning ship?” The captain  replies: “Davey is emergency rations”!

At 1157 lunch is called, and a big call goes out from main and mizzenmast watches who are in the first sitting: “YES!!”

All is well.

Contributed by ship’s steward Mischa Chaleyer-Kynaston

 

Voyage Log: Port Macquarie-Newcastle Day 3

Thursday, 2 October 2008

Noon position: Lat 33°25.9′S Long 153°53.4′E
Day’s run: 156.6 nm

Out in the swell and some crew members feel the effect, a few are sitting in the waist (the middle section of the ship) hugging “happy buckets” closely. A voyage crew member complains: “there was no mention of seasickness on the website!” Turns out he had neglected to read the log, lucky his spirits are still high – with Port Macquarie and sight of land falling swiftly behind Bark Endeavour.

The winds are high, up around 25 knots gusts of 30 knots, and Endeavour takes advantage. Sails are set in quick succession, one after the other; the main topsail, fore course, and fore topsail, and the main topmast staysail is handed in. Mainmast watch takes many ocean showers while setting sail, as waves splash over the bow and waist. At 1530 all hands are called on deck, thinking they’re in for sail handling. Everyone assembles in the waist and numbers off, as soon as Toby, the chief officer, is sure everyone is present he declares afternoon smoko time: all hands have been called to celebrate a birthday among the voyage crew! The lucky birthday fellow gets a sea shower for his trouble, as do many of the crew, with another wave splashing the deck.

At 1650 mizzenmast watch are aloft to put a second reef in the fore topsail, with half their number down and taken by seasickness. It’s a tough job with the wind pushing hard, and some stoic voyage crew work at it even though seasickness is gripping them – with the unsurprising result of some being sick from the fighting top! Fortunately seasickness is typically accompanied by wind and a rolling ship; it heads directly out to sea rather than onto those on the deck (as long as one stands on the lee/downwind side!).

The ship breaks her speed record since sailing for the ANMM: 10.7 knots! Although the sail master and boatswain, Ant, notes that she had the help of the current, so the captain, Ross, doesn’t think it counts. Either way, it is in the realm of her top speeds (the highest recorded is 12 knots).

The first night at sea is not without drama, a hammock goes down and its occupant gets a battle bump she could have done without, and a supernumerary takes a good tumble across the gentleman’s mess. At 2000 hours the watch officer notes “moderate seas”, by 0100 it has changed to “building seas”, and it builds and builds. During the night the captain shaves 20 degrees of her south heading to ease the roll a little, losing some ground, but no one appreciates it – for it’s still a restless sleep for all aboard. Not much ground is lost though; by 0600 she is level with Broken Bay, beyond her destination: Newcastle.

At 0650, 100 nautical miles off shore, we wear ship, and head back towards land. Morning briefings are held, for the professional and voyage crew; the seas continue to build and seasickness has a strong hold of many. The priority is to keep the crew active, to ensure a speedy recovery. Most still manage a smile, and all are up on deck in the fresh air. After the meeting, foremast and mizzenmast watches hit cleaning stations, “happy hour”, while mainmast watch climbs aloft to put a second reef in the main topsail – with the help of the idlers to fill in for their seasick shipmates.

The day is hot, clear and windy, with big rolling seas.

All is well.

Contributed by ship’s steward Mischa Chalayer-Kynaston

 

Voyage Log: Sydney-Brisbane Aug 2008: Day 2

Noon Position: Lat 33 47’s, Long151 21.5 East,
Days Run: 6 nautical miles

After lunch, the voyage crew are shown around the vessel so they can familiarise themselves with the procedures aboard the fair ship Endeavour. At this stage, the voyage crew do not know what they are in for but the new hands are eager and keen to learn. They have 24 hours to get up to speed and learn the basics while we anchor in Rose Bay before we set sail out the heads early Sunday morning.

HMB Endeavour crew training

Foremast watch climb aloft, some struggle and others are like spiders on a web, but everyone makes it eventually and feels a sense of great achievement. The thought of climbing down suggests it might be actually be easier to stay aloft and watch the sun go down. The sun sets in the west, warming Rose Bay with a light orange glow, it’s magical and we are all taken by it and the beauty of the atmosphere gently rocks the ship back and forth. A light breeze sets in as the sun sets and the air becomes crisp. The crew is tired from a big day, a little overwhelmed from all the information to be absorbed.

The first of the watches are carried out tonight. Mainmast watch experience a constant alarm of an activated emergency beacon deployed somewhere off northern New South Wales, requiring the expertise of both the captain and the chief officer to be acknowledged. Most voyage crew experience their first anchor watch, whilst others that have been on the ship before, get re-acquainted.

Endeavour sunset

It is an early start for every crew member this morning on Endeavour. The voyage crew were itching to get out of Rose Bay and set sail for Brisbane yesterday but spending the first night in the harbour has given everyone a good understanding of what lies ahead of them in the rougher seas to come.

With little sleep and a belly full of yummy breakfast, the crew strap up their harnesses and head up on deck, where we are advised that we need to pack down and stow away everything securely. The engines are fired up to motor us out of Rose Bay and into clear water to start setting our sails! The crew take up their lines, they are glad we are off and enjoy hoisting some sails. Foremast watch heave in the anchor. The call is given to the other watches, “Down to one turn, ease away, haul away, haul on the sheets”, the topman yells as we gently drift out of the Rose Bay.

Around the corner, we are at the heads and the seas are high and the swell is huge. We are experiencing a west-south-westerly swirl and 15-20 knots of winds. The ship rolls from side to side and before too long we are meet with dolphins on the starboard side and seals playing and surfing the wake of the white wash beneath the ship on the port side.

Soon the massive swell brings on some grim looking faces, causing the crew clench to their “happy” buckets in hope the dreadful feeling will stop but they have no choice but to get use to it. Even some members of Endeavour’s professional crew are not immune to the horrors of seasickness – the steward goes down sick!

All is well.

Contributed by ship’s steward, Melanie Snow